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Quenett Winery brings taste for tradition to downtown
Hood River
Photo by Kirby Neumann-Rea
James and Molli Martin and their sons, Ethan, 6, and Griffin,
10, in front of the Quenett Winery Tasting Room on Oak Street.
Quenett will be just one stop on the Presidents’ Day wine tour
in the Gorge. Look for details in the Feb. 14 Hood River News,
or visit the Web site,
www.columbiagorgewine.com/events.htm,
for details on individual winery hours, locations
and special features. |
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By JANET COOK
News staff writer
February 10,
2007
Like many winemakers, James and Molli Martin of Quenett Winery
came to their passion via a long and winding road.
The two grew up in The Dalles — both in generations-old
cherry-growing families — and began dating in high school. After
college and time away from their hometown, they returned to work
the family farm.
But like many orchardists, they were confronted with the
uncertain reality of making a living from cherry farming alone —
especially as their family grew to include three kids. They got
involved in other businesses, but James found his passion after
sampling local wines at a wine-tasting event several years ago.
“I realized the potential of what we have here,” James recalled.
He began studying winemaking at the University of California
Davis in 2000. And he and Molli contacted long-time family
friend Zelma Long — a wine-making pioneer who served as Robert
Mondavi’s chief enologist for 10 years in the 1970s and was at
the forefront of several top Napa Valley wineries for more than
30 years— who has become a vital mentor to the couple.
“It’s been a real privilege to work with her,” Molli said. Long,
a native of The Dalles, and Molli’s mother were best friends and
graduated from The Dalles High School in the early 1960s.
“I get free advice, and an hour with her is usually around
$500,” James said.
The Martins debuted their first wines in 2003. They chose the
name “quenett” from the Indian word for steelhead — the rainbow
trout that was once a staple of local Native Americans’ diets.
Quenett was the Indians’ name for what is now known as Mill
Creek in The Dalles.
James currently makes his wines at Maryhill Winery’s
state-of-the art facility near Maryhill, Wash. When James
started studying winemaking, he worked for Maryhill’s owners
Craig and Vicki Leuthold, and they have also become his mentors.
“Everything I’m doing as a winemaker — it’s all a collaboration
with Maryhill,” James said. But that will change. The Martins
are developing the Sunshine Mill site at the east end of
downtown The Dalles, and will eventually have their entire
winemaking facility located there.
Likewise, they currently buy grapes from several local
vineyards, but are converting 10 of their 50 acres of cherries
to grapes — with the potential for more.
The Martins officially opened Quenett’s tasting room at 111 Oak
Street in Hood River last November. They’d been angling for a
space in downtown Hood River, where they foresee much growth in
the visibility of local winemakers.
“There are 17 tasting rooms and local wineries in downtown Walla
Walla (Wash.),” James said, referring to eastern Washington’s
fast-growing wine industry. “We expect to see more wineries
opening up on Oak Street. It doesn’t get any more sexy than this
for an address.”
The Martins remodeled the tasting room, which was formerly Yum
Gallery, into a roomy but cozy space.
“We’ve talked about it being the living room of the winery,”
Molli said.
Quenett currently features 10 wines in its tasting room, ranging
from Chardonnay and Pinot Gris to Sangiovese and Zinfandel.
James said that one of his goals as a winemaker is to “really
show the fruit.”
“One of the unique and special things we’ve got in this region
is really good ripening conditions — as good as any in
California,” James said. “The more Mediterranean and Italian
style varietals are really what are our exceptional wines right
now.”
The Martins also recognize the importance of investing —often
heavily — in the right tools for making premium wines.
“If there’s anything we’re doing differently, we’re not afraid
of spending a lot on things like French oak barrels,” James
said. “We’re investing in trying to make high end wines.”
The Martins look forward to growing their wine business, and are
excited with its potential.
“We’ve really been lucky,” James said. “But then, we’ve operated
under the philosophy that good things come to those who are
looking for good things.”
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Quenett is open Thursdays from noon to 6 p.m., Fridays and
Saturdays from noon to 8 p.m., and Sundays and Mondays from noon
to 6. The winery will also be open Valentine’s Day. During
President’s Day weekend and Valentine’s Day, Quenett will
feature special pairings of wine with custom-made chocolates. |
