January 2, 2008
Hood River native relishes 'cool details' of homes on both
sides of the pacificOne easy
way to gain a new appreciation for home, family, friends and all
the little details of ones everyday surroundings that are often
taken for granted
is to disappear.
Pack up and move somewhere completely
foreign, stay gone, feel like you don't fit in, wish you were
home, miss it, daydream about being there, stay gone longer, and
in doing so, there is little better feeling in the world than
finally returning to the place and people you love.
I rarely get homesick, but whenever I am
away I always miss Hood River. After spending a year in Tsuruta,
Japan, I made it home for a bit of catching up. A month home
seemed like a week, and before I could do everything and see
everyone I wanted, I was on a plane back to Tokyo with a blur of
great new memories, a sunburn, a bit of the sandbar in my shoes,
a new Slingshot 13-meter kite and a heavy heart full of fresh
goodbyes. Something else I had, which was not expected, was a
sense of missing my home and friends in Tsuruta, and excitement
to be returning to Japan.
While visiting Hood River, I realized
there were a lot of cool aspects of my life in Tsuruta that I
had not fully appreciated until I left. I was so caught up in
the emotion and fun of being home that I didn't have a chance to
share some of the many interesting details and stories of a year
in the life as Hood River's overseas Sister City liaison. Here
are some that come to mind.
I grew up in Parkdale and was, on
occasion, made to eat trout caught fresh from Laurence Lake and
the East Fork. I would like to say I loved and fully appreciated
the opportunity, but in reality I credit it for my general
dislike of fish and seafood as an adolescent. My diet in Japan,
however, consists of sushi, sashimi, grilled squid, grilled
octopus, breaded octopus, octopus salad, raw salmon salad, fish
stew, fish wrapped in seaweed, fish eggs, fish on a stick, squid
on a stick, eel on a stick, baby octopus on a stick, urchins,
snails, sea pineapple, sea cucumber, an assortment of other
seafaring creatures and a whole lot of rice.
Aside from extremely fresh seafood, the
variety of delicious, inexpensive and healthy food here is
exquisite. Look for some carnitas, pizza or a good microbrew, on
the other hand, and you will starve before you find it.
That is not to say I like all of the
aforementioned dishes, however; and I am often the laughingstock
of the dinner table as the locals get their kicks from watching
me taste and gag on their favorite, slimy mystery dishes. One
disadvantage of not being able to read restaurant menus is that
I am forced to either order the few items I know by name, point
to something and hope it is good or trust my friends to order
something I will like. I am, by default, a frequenter of the
only restaurant in Tsuruta with pictures on its menu. In
general, the food here is exquisite, the service is top-notch
and it is actually considered rude to leave a tip.
Learning Japanese in my situation has
proven to be a challenge, and far more difficult than people in
Hood River might think. It cannot be compared, for example, to
being immersed in a Spanish-speaking culture for a year.
Although I have made great progress since my days of often
incommunicable gesturing and general silence despite wanting to
speak, my Japanese is still quite lousy. This is in part due to
Japanese being a difficult language for Westerners to learn and
in part because I spend as much of my free time as possible
playing in the ocean and on the mountain and terrorizing the
locals in between.
Terrorizing is a relative term, and in
Tsuruta my causing trouble consists of acts like riding my
bicycle the wrong way down a sidewalk, borrowing someone's spare
umbrella from the office rack without permission and driving my
sticker-covered surf van downtown with the reggae turned up and
the windows rolled down. Laws here are strict and people follow
them without question, and I am certainly no exception.
As a foreigner working as a public
servant, I would be held more accountable than most for breaking
the law, so many offenses would result in my immediate
deportation following any imprisonment time. Needless to say, I
follow all the rules.
Drinking and driving is a good example.
The blood alcohol limit is zero, and if a person is caught on
the road after drinking even a sip of beer, he/she can expect to
be fired, fined massive amounts of money, jailed and downright
put to shame. And if that person was drinking with friends or at
an establishment, anyone who allowed or witnessed the crime can
also be held responsible as an accomplice.
A simple and ingenious way to remedy
drinking and driving in rural areas like Tsuruta, where trains
stop running after about 10 p.m., is called "Daiko." They are
available everywhere, at any time of night, so people always
have an easy way to get home without driving. It is something
Hood River could certainly use. Daiko is a taxi service that
comes with two drivers one drives the taxi and the other
drives your car home for you. People generally pile into both
cars and split the fee, which usually is a few hundred yen each
for the 15-minute ride from the nearby cities back to Tsuruta.
My office and work environment is one of
the most challenging social differences I deal with on a daily
basis. It is an excellent learning experience and I am fortunate
that everyone in my department is very nice. But the system, the
structure and general order of operation here is something a
young American male with lots of ideas must learn to have great
patience with. I have little weight in most issues that concern
my job and am generally expected to do what I am asked without
question or variation. It is a system of strict hierarchy, and I
am on the very bottom.
I generally visit three or four classes
a day as a guest teacher 30 minutes each at the kindergartens
and 45 minutes at the grade schools. My time in each of the 15
schools I visit is by far my favorite work duty. I am happy to
report that after a year of foiling terrorist plots and slapping
away hands aimed below the belt, my students have all but given
up on karate kicks and Conchos. I have also managed to teach the
rascals a bit of English.
All high school and junior high school
students wear uniforms, as well as some kindergarteners. School
is five days a week and students participate in mandatory school
clubs or sports after school and on Saturdays. Students of all
ages always wear special indoor shoes from the entryway of
schools inward. Special guest slippers are available for at the
door for visitors.
Students are placed in kindergarten,
elementary and junior high school based on where they live in
town. Students do not have to go to high school in their town.
Those who perform well in junior high can choose to attend
schools in the surrounding cities, so for some Tsuruta kids the
day starts with a train ride to Goshogowara, Itayanagi or
Hirosaki.
Snow days do not exist here (although
typhoon days do), despite the town receiving on average more
annual snowfall than the parking lot of Mt. Hood Meadows.
Students bundle up and walk or ride their bikes to class in
conditions the Hood River County School District Superintendent
wouldn't think twice to cancel school over. Granted, Tsuruta is
very flat and driving in the snow and ice around here is far
safer than many of Hood River County's roads.
Teaching my first elementary school
lesson in Japan was a painful experience, literally. With no
idea what to do or anticipate, I strolled into the first of my
15 new schools as green as a Chia Pet, expecting the students to
be serious, quiet, polite and well-disciplined. As an
appropriate defying of my expectations, a group of about 10
third-grade boys gave me the proper introduction to Tsuruta
Elementary School, and to the notorious tag-team "Cancho."
To imagine the Cancho experience, extend
your arms in front of you and interlock your fingers. Now extend
your pointer fingers out and your thumbs up so it looks like you
are aiming an imaginary pistol at a target in front of you. This
is the weapon. The target: the behinds and crotches of
unfortunate, unknowing foreign English teachers like myself.
The key to a good gang-Cancho, as I
quickly learned, is an effective diversion of the victim's
attention from what is going on behind him. In my case, the
diversion came in the form of a polite, "Hello, what's your
name?" from a boy with a nice smile, followed abruptly by a
flying jump kick to the crotch. Buckled in pain and shock, I
left myself vulnerable from behind and consequently received my
first elementary school lesson in 15 years.
The second came as the pain of the first
was still in effect. With the extent of my Japanese vocabulary
being "Domo arigato Mr. Roboto" and "Toire wa doko des ka (where
is the toilet?)," how in the world do I communicate to the home
room teacher that I was just karate- kicked in the crotch and
jabbed from behind by 20 eager little fingers? I had already
found body language to be valuable in many simple situations,
but somehow gesturing the scene to a teacher I just met didn't
seem appropriate. I let it go, laughed and realized I just
received payment for a bit of the trouble I caused as a
third-grader.
Today, after living, teaching and
experiencing Japan for over a year, I realize that one of my
first experiences here would prove to be a metaphor for much of
my life in Tsuruta: Expectations defied, surprises, clever and
energetic kids, a sense of alienation, difficulty with
communication, self-reflection, and, ultimately, finding humor
in the inevitable difficulties and follies of life as a
foreigner immersed in a culture so different from my own.
My time in Tsuruta is something I will
never forget. When I leave and move on to something else, I'm
sure I will miss my life here, all the great people and all the
cool little details I am currently taking for granted. And that
is the sting I have found in traveling as a lifestyle and making
great friends and memories everywhere I go. I say goodbye to one
home knowing it will not be the same if I return. I show up
somewhere new, work to make friends and find happiness, then,
when everything seems to fit, I say goodbye, leave a piece of
myself behind, and start the process all over again.
Why do I bother?
Life is short. No regrets.